Tools
Some basic tools are needed to start bladesmithing. This is not a comprehensive list, just some ideas of what you may need and reminder to me of the stuff I still need to get.
Hammers
You’ll need a selection different sizes hammers for forging, refining, tapping in pins, and even patterning.
The face of a hammer should be rounded slightly to help prevent marks on your blade.
Tongs
Different tools for different jobs. They aren’t cheap but a firm grip of your hot steel will help prevent it flying off after an impact and hitting you or something in the workshop. Being able to control your piece will mean more accurate hammer strikes and a better outcome. There are a huge number of them with different jaws – each serving a specific purpose.
Files
Useful for tidying up, filing bevels if you don’t have a belt grinder, and generally shaping steel or handle materials. Old files are also a great source of steel at a reasonable cost, particularly if you can find them at car boot sales.
File Guide
Great for improving the match of your grinds on both sides. Usually has a tungsten insert to resist ceramic belts.
Vice
A sturdy vice is vital for securely holding your blade at various points in the making of it. A larger vice is better than a small one as you may well be wailing on it and small ones tend take strain more quickly. I have an old blacksmith’s leg vice which transmits the force of a downward blow into the floor rather than the bench it’s mounted on. I paid £75 for mine.
Drill Press
A useful tool for drilling hand pin holes and creating openings for tangs in handle material. Many have a variety of pulleys allowing you to slow down the drill.
Drills
Tungsten Carbide Tipped drills will help getting through hardened blades. – ukdrills.com
Band Saw
A band saw will help cut off excess material to speed up the sanding your bar stock. If you can cut off unneeded material, you won’t have to waste time filing or use up your precious belts getting the blade into a final shape. Handle materials can be cut into two for use on either side of the blade so it’s a handy tool.
A lot of bladesmiths use an angle grinder. It can be used to cut steel, remove excess material and even grind in fullers but you do have to put up with the sparks and heat it generates.
Safety PPE
- Safety glasses – get from screwfix or other DIY outlet.
- Full face shield – protects face from flying debris but be sure to use safety glasses underneath for better protection.
- Respirator – vital for grinding on a belt, whether it is wood or metal! If it comes off the belt, it’s not good for you!
- Apron – saves your clothes from scale burns and dirt, and some offer pockets for convenience.
- Gloves – can be useful to protect your hand from the heat of the forge. A lot of smiths don’t use gloves, and certainly not around rotating equipment where it’s possible for gloves to get caught and rip off a finger! Nitrile gloves are a must if you use any chemicals. Your skin is your largest organ and a sponge for chemicals. Wear surgical gloves when working with epoxy glues, gun blue or similar to keep it out of your bloodstream.
Quench tank
- 30 Quart Turkey Fryer
- Stainless steel fire extinguisher bottle with the top cut off
- Ammo box – 81mm mortar box
Quench Oil
- 1084 – Parks 50 but Canola or Peanut oil is also popular
- 1095 and Silver Steel – Parks 50
- 01, 1080 and 80CrV2 – Parks 32